We arrived in Mulegé after a couple weeks of desert, isolation and adventure. We were looking forward to find some civilization, but we didn’t want to loose that laid back feeling that Baja California is famous for. And that’s exactly what we found. We quickly spotted a set of public “palapas” in front of the ocean, in an idilic placement, and met some other van travellers that were spending time there too.
It was so nice to meet people again, and we made good friends there. We spent our days swimming, reading, and eating great food. The first evening, a group of fishermen arrived from a hard day of work. We approached them in order to get some fish for a barbecue dinner and when we asked the man how much would he charge us for a fish he stopped, looked at us, and started laughing. He gave us not one, but two just caught fresh fish and didn’t ask anything in exchange. The barbecue that night just felt so much better.
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The stretch of coast right south of Mulegé, known as Bahía Concecpción, is an area with an infinite number of beautiful beaches, and a winding coastal road that discovers you a new incredible spot after each turn. The problem? It’s very popular among american tourists, specially wealthy retirees. So it’s an area that has received too many foreign visitors and it’s beaches, though beautiful, are not actually calm, and it can even be hard to find a place to park your van. Luckily, we met a french/american couple that showed us a very cool boon docking spot. They were great cooks and we shared a meal of “tostadas de camarón” with a fire on the beach. Thanks!
If we had to select a highlight of our last year on the road…it would be impossible, BUT, Bahia Magdalena would be in the top 5 for sure. We never thought whales would amaze us so much! If you’ve ever gone whale watching in California you’ll probably have been in a pretty big boat, watching whales from a pretty far distance, only being able to see their backs for a second or a little bit of the tail, if lucky. Well…it happens that gray whales don’t stop there because they are migrating, and guess where they migrate to? Baja California. There’s a set of bays where whales go to breed during winter. Males stay at the entrance of these bays, to keep predators away, and females can have their babies in a very safe environment.
They just feel so safe, and curious, and so happy that you are there. So we took a little boat at dawn and went whale watching. Wow. It was just so amazing. The whales came, almost begging us to touch them. They scratched themselves with the bottom of our tiny boat, and we could, for the first time, appreciate their huge dimensions and beauty. It was also very emotional to see the close relationship between mother and baby, and you could really feel a connection between us and them, all being mammals, all being social.
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